Point Sublime is a small and very narrow peninsula that juts out over the North Rim in Grand Canyon. This remote and incredibly stunning view point is certainly not for the faint of heart or the acrophobic! With a permit you may camp, but you’ll have to have a high clearance 4×4 vehicle, spare tire, shovel and definitely food and water to be properly prepared for this 2 plus hour trek over jagged Kaibab Limestone. Or, you could always walk, run, ride your mountain bike or horse….

Once, during a monsoon season, myself, husband, son, brother-in law and two nephews had just arrived for an evening of hot dogs and camping fun. The adults were taking bets on how long it would take for the soccer ball to go over the edge and then moments later we were literally fearing for our lives. The front hit us with gale force and we quickly piled in the truck together and waited for the hellacious storm to pass. The wind howled, the truck shook and rocked back and forth, there were hundreds of lightning strikes all around us and the sound of thunder and rain pounding on the truck was deafening. It felt like at any moment we were going to slide off with the mud into the abyss below. At least the windows were so fogged up that we wouldn’t be able to see the fast approaching rocks below as we headed to our imminent death. Yikes. But, we survived and when it cleared, we cautiously and curiously wandered out to the rim.

What a view!!! Facing South, there is the infamous Crystal Canyon watershed off to the left. In 1966, the North Rim received an incredible 14 inches of rain in a very short period of time causing an epic flash flood full of debris and boulders as big as houses. As a result, a path of destruction was left in its wake and Crystal Rapids was formed. Still to this day, Crystal is the most formidable, respected and (arguably) most feared rapid in all of Grand Canyon!

Now, back up to the rim view….To the right, you can see the Powell Plateau, another major landmark that can be spotted from multiple points along the river and from many other view points. I have only been out to the Powell Plateau once and I would love to one day have more time there. The plateau itself is a “sky island”, surrounded by canyon on all sides and not attached to either North or South Rims. It can be accessed from the North Rim and again, you better bring your shovel! This sky island has some of the prettiest old growth Ponderosa Pine forest in the world. Fortunately, because of its inaccessibility and protection from the Park, it has been spared from roads, logging and development of any kind.

And, back again to Point Sublime, just below, if you really reach your neck, from here you can see one tiny, little spit of Colorado River and whitewater. I was pretty sure I knew which exact spot on the river we were seeing, but it wasn’t until my next river trip that I was able to confirm it. If you guessed Boucher Rapids then you are correct! Right as you are dropping into this rapid, if you look up, you can see Point Sublime for just a moment or two. This is the only place where Point Sublime can be seen from the river and it is also the view that inspired this painting. As far as rating rapids, Boucher isn’t so bad. In really low water, it might make a rookie motor boatman a little nervous! Now, we’re transporting down to the river for the rest of the story and after we get through Boucher, it’s off to the races…. the anticipation builds over the next river mile on top of an already adrenaline filled day. Of course then, next up is Crystal Rapids…

It’s hard to truly articulate what happens inside a boat guide’s head and heart and stomach on that mile float approaching Crystal. Most guides, the ones that have been around a while anyway, know what possible consequences lie ahead and well, just try to focus on a good run!!! In my nearly 200 runs through Crystal Rapids, I can count the times that I DIDN’T stop to scout, on one hand. Even if you were just through 2 weeks prior on the same exact water flow, and you know the run inside and out and you could do it in your sleep, and if you stop, that other trip might take the camp you want, you still stop to scout. Passengers may ask why we need to look at the rapid and I tell them and have heard my comrades say the same thing : It’s out of respect. And, because there are multiple ways to get through this rapid, you certainly want your crew to be on the same page and to remind your passengers what to do if they unfortunately find themselves out of the boat and in the water.

Well, what will it be? A left left run (my favorite), a right left run? A center run? (hopefully not) A right right run? Once we’ve decided and everyone feels good about their decision, we head back to our tied up boats, tummy full of butterflies, head focused and game ready. We tell the passengers to tighten up their life jackets and clip everything down and the crew gives each other lots of support with, “good runs, love you bud, good runs, love you bud, I’m right behind you bud, see you below”. One by one, the boats peel out from shore. There is no going back, HA!, like there ever was. I stick my hand in the water now, which has become my personal ritual, and I humbly and silently ask the river for safe passage. We don’t need style points today, just please, let everyone through safely.

A lot more often than not, one by one, and usually in the same order we left the scout, the boats make it through, gather up and bob below in a little nook we lovingly call, “Thank God Eddy”. There’s all sorts of hooping and hollering, maybe some bailing, high-fiving, and way to go’s….spirits are high and it gives us the boost we need to run the next big stretch of rapids we call the Jewels. That was it, all the anticipation, the build up and waking up at 3:30 am with anxiety, it’s over, we’re safely through, an important mile stone to be at with your crew, peeps and boats all in one piece. We’re doing it! and Ain’t It Sublime!?!?!

Original ink and watercolor : 16×24 inches ~ contact West of the Moon Gallery

Order prints! 11×17″ or 16×24″